Buying Men’s Collared Shirts: 101
From date nights to job interviews and everything in between, there will always be a reason to throw on a nice, collared shirt. These timeless designs are a must-have in every fashionable man’s wardrobe. If you don’t already own a few, it’s time to make a purchase!
But when it comes down to it, do you really understand the differences between each type of collar shirt? How can you ensure a perfect fit? What’s the correct choice for standing out with your personal style instead of blending into the masses? Join us as we answer all these questions (and more!) to help you feel like your trendiest self.
What is a Collared Shirt?
Simply put, a collared or collar shirt can be defined as a shirt with a band of fabric around the neck, generally secured with a button or two at the base of the throat. Traditionally, these men’s shirts were strictly reserved for formal gatherings, but as our world evolves, so does our fashion! Now, collared shirts can be made from various materials and include fun and funky patterns, making them a closet essential for year-round use.
Important Collar Shirt Vocab:
Point: the sharp points of the collar that surround the shirt’s top button
Band: the section of the collar that touches the neck
Spread: distance between the bottom of the two points
Tie space: distance between the top of the two points
Collar height: the vertical measurement of the folded collar on the neck
The History of the Collared Shirts
Until the mid-1400s, boat or scoop necklines were all the rage in menswear, but that changed for good once the collar shirt fad swept the Western culture. Unattached collars, also known as ruffs, commonly seen in antique portraits of England’s royalty, political figures, and, of course, Shakespeare, began popping up as a way for citizens to display their high status in society. These elaborate, pleated designs were trendy in Elizabethan England, but they weren't quite timeless.
By the early to mid-1800s, the ruff had become a more subdued cravat or detachable collar, with simply tied designs tucked underneath the shirt at the base of the throat. As fashion evolved into the 20th century, people realized it would be easier to attach the collar to the shirt, birthing the collared shirt we know (and still love!) today.
Are Collared Shirts in Style This Year?
As we enter the mid-2020s, we can safely say that collared shirts remain in style—perhaps now more than ever (and yes, even including ‘90s fashion). As our culture gets a little bit more laid back and personal aesthetics vary worldwide, collared shirts are suitable for both casual and formal settings. Whether your favorite collared men’s shirts are layered under a jacket, buttoned up to the top, or left billowing in the breeze over your favorite men’s sweatshirts, you can rest easy knowing they’re eternally fashionable.
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Collar Shirt
Without a trained eye, it may look like every collared shirt is the same. But, if you look closer, that couldn’t be further from the truth. From bold patterns, as seen in our native striped shacket, to a classic white cotton design, there are countless collared shirts to choose from. Before you buy the first one that comes your way, you should look into these important factors:
What Kind of Material is It?
The first element worth digging into when shopping for men’s shirts is the material. The fabrics used to construct the collared shirt can affect everything, from how it feels to the overall fit and structure.
Certain materials, such as cotton or premium blends, can give you a crisp, professional aesthetic perfect for office wear and special occasions. Other softer fabrics, like linen or a sherpa lined flannel shacket, give you more of a lived-in and laidback look ideal for everyday style. As you shop, make sure to feel (or investigate the fabric percentages if you’re browsing online) to get exactly what you’re looking for.
7 Popular Men’s Shirt Materials and Their Benefits:
Collared shirts can be found in a variety of fabric options, including:
- Flannel: cozy and long-lasting (like our customer-favorite insulated flannel shirt)
- Sherpa: extra warm and soft
- Oxford cloth: durable and wrinkle-resistant
- Poplin: lightweight and silky smooth
- Cotton: breathable and low-maintenance
- Linen: hypoallergenic and absorbent
- Polyester: affordable and moisture-wicking
How Should the Collar Fit?
The collar on a men’s shirt should fit snugly around your neck when buttoned up. If it’s too tight, the material will constrict your neck, making every wear uncomfortable. But if it’s too loose, there’ll be an awkward gap at the front. The goal when finding a flattering collar fit for your men’s shirts is comfort above all else.
How to Find Your Perfect Collar Shirt Fit
If you’re shopping in Brooklyn vintage stores in person, you can find your perfect collar fit by using the Two Finger Rule. Once you button up the shirt, you should be able to comfortably fit two fingers between your neck and the collar. If you can’t easily fit two fingers, the collar is too tight. If you can fit three fingers in, the collar is way too big.
Pro tip: If you’re going for an extra form-fitting look, one finger is also acceptable—as long as it remains comfortable, that is!
Pay Attention to Collar Stiffness
As you browse, you should carefully consider the stiffness of each men’s shirt collar, as they vary from design to design. More rigid collars are generally chosen for dressier occasions, while soft, relaxed collars are best for casual wear out and about, like paired with a 100% cotton tee. Think of it this way: the more formal your outfit, the stiffer the collar should be!
What is a Collar Stay?
Collar stays have been a classic men’s accessory for more than a century, and while they are rarely used these days, that doesn’t mean they aren’t helpful! A collar stay is a small flat insert used to anchor the collar of a men’s shirt down in place. They are often made from plastic or metal and can be sewn in or removable.
Look Into Each Collar Shape
At a glance, collars can appear identical—but that couldn’t be further from the truth! When you take a closer look at the traditional or modern designs, like our Aztec patterned shacket, you’ll see that there are a few minute differences that help set each collar shape apart. That way, if you don’t like how one feels around your neck or the accent it gives to your outfit, you can try another and still maintain the traditional silhouette of a collared men’s shirt.
The Most Popular Collar Shapes for Men’s Shirts
You’ll be surprised to learn just how many types of collars you can choose from when buying men’s shirts. We’ve taken it upon ourselves to detail the unique and distinct differences between some of the most popular collar shapes in fashion:
The Button-Down Collar
The old-school button-down collar will always have a place in men’s shirts, whether it’s worn casually or dressed up with a tie for work. It’s often considered to be the “sporty” option, as they were particularly popular with polo players. Both points of the collar are secured to the shirt with small buttons to help keep everything in place during day-to-day wear.
The Point Collar
Sometimes referred to as the forward-point or straight-point color, it is the most traditional collar shape for men’s shirts. With a narrow distance of around 1.5 and 3.5 inches between the two elongated points, this shape provides a chiseling effect and ensures a tie will fit perfectly without any gaping.
The Cutaway Collar
Cutaway collars lend a dramatic flair to your most formal fits. With a wide distance of 6 or more inches between the points, the collar creates a bold, angled shape and leaves the band visible on either side of the tie. For those who are fans of big ties or antique aesthetics, this collar shape helps create a stylish statement.
The Spread Collar
The spread collar is a popular choice for men’s shirts—and has been for around a hundred years! In the ‘20s, the Prince of Wales wore this style all the time, setting a sophisticated standard for both British and American men. This design has a wider collar of about 5 inches with points that spread to meet the jacket in order to accommodate wider tie knots, such as the famous Windsor knot.
The Tab Collar
The tab is the collar shape that means business. These men’s shirts have a snap tab that brings the points closer together and helps hold your tie in place, giving you that polished appearance. Though it is mostly reserved for dressier events, as it can only work with a tie, this shirt is a staple for any man’s collection.
Other Men’s Shirt Collar Shapes to Explore:
Club
Band
Wingtip
Tips for Choosing a Flattering Collared Shirt
Whether you’re looking to upgrade your existing men’s shirts with fresh new pieces or starting your collection from scratch, it’s important to understand just what makes a collared shirt work for you. Button-downs can be worn with just about everything as long as you know how to style it. Determine the right collars for you with these handy tips and tricks:
Tip #1: Look at Your Face Size and Shape
When it comes to shopping for men’s shirts, did you ever stop to wonder if there’s a flattering fit according to your face shape? Good news—there is! The right collar can help balance out both the size and shape of your face by drawing your eyes to certain features.
If you have a wider or rounder face shape, point collars are the perfect complementary choice for your men’s shirts. The angular points draw attention downwards, providing a slimming effect. Make sure to try on a few different collar options with standard or narrow spreads to help chisel your face in style!
For those with thinner or longer faces, a spread collar is the perfect choice. These modern designs have a longer distance between the points, creating a widening effect that balances out a narrow face. The greater the distance between the two points, the more enhanced the effect becomes!
Tip #2: Consider Neck Length
Collars are designed to frame the neck of men’s shirts, so it makes perfect sense that the type of collar you choose should depend on the length of your neck. The collar band can come in various sizes and is measured from the fold to the point. Each type of collared men’s shirt has specific measurements that can complement different neck lengths.
In general, if you have a short neck, you’ll want to stick to standard band sizes. Taller collars will cover more of your neck and create an unwanted oversized appearance (not to be confused with the trendy oversized styles we always talk about!). As you shop, pull a few spread or point collar shirts, as well as a few with shorter than average points to successfully balance out your shorter neck.
People with longer necks will want to search for taller collar sizes. Most men’s shirt collars will suit their elongated frame, but if you want a dramatic flair, something with a cutaway collar is always fun!
Tip #3: Think About the Occasion
While we will always believe that the best men’s shirts can be dressed up or down for any occasion, sometimes deciding whether or not to buy a collared shirt is determining when and where you should wear it. Traditionally, certain men’s shirts work better for formal events, while others are best worn in casual circumstances. But remember, these are just a few style tips—if you want to dare to be different, go right ahead!
Fashion lovers tend to agree that it’s best to play it safe with standard collar sizes and shapes, such as a point or tab, especially if they’re worn for weddings, stylish Thanksgiving outfits, or big days at the office. These men’s shirts are made from wrinkle-free polyester, high-quality cotton, or blends to give that crisp and clean look.
On the other hand, the best casual, day-to-day button-down shirts are made out of materials that will keep you feeling cozy and looking great all day long, like a flannel shacket or a linen design. When you choose a collar shape for your laidback pieces, consider the layering possibilities with other items in your closet, like jackets and long sleeve tees.
At the end of the day, it’s important to remember that there are no real “rules” in fashion. If there’s something you like, wear it! But hopefully, with this insider style guide to men’s shirt collars, you can find a design that sparks your fashion-savvy mind.
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